
A while back the BF and I decided to cross Papa Christo’s off our never-ending-things-to-eat-in-LA-list. We had always heard about the hearty Greek eatery serving up its own house red (fun, vibrant, simple, like punch for adults in the best sense of that phrase) with its gyros, lamb plates, baklava and more. I can safely say I had the best tstazki in my life at this place. The small side container they give it to you in is not enough!
We hit up the deli and store after eating. I bought olives and a bottle of white wine called a Retsina. The man behind the counter, boasting an awesome giant Greek mustache told me Retsina was an acquired taste, and was also quite good with the olive mix I was taking home. I found this odd right away. Olives are often not served at wine tastings because they can overpower the taste of delicate wines and here was this guy recommending that very practice.
He was right about one thing, Retsina is different from other white wines and it may not be for everyone because of its uniqueness. This Retsina from Kourtaki was deep golden yellow in the glass, with a slightly oily mouthfeel – not silky or slippery like so many other white wines. I would say it felt heftier than the oakiest of California chards but it didn’t have an oaky thing going on at all. In fact what it had going on was PINE: pine on the nose, pine on the aftertaste, with a touch of dirt or something vegetal. The pine note is no accident, the bottle specifically says “resin from the Aleppo pine is added to the must during fermentation to produce the distinctive resinated style.” I think some American palates might find this odd. Pine is the scent of so many of our cleaning products, it’s odd to reposition it in your sense memory as something delicious. Well, not so for the boyfriend. He loved it, quaffed it down with roasted cauliflower and olives. It stood up well to a black truffle and mushroom pizza I paired it with on another occasion. Because Retsina is no wuss in the glass, it can go with lots of strong foods. I bet some stinky stinky cheese can survive a pairing with this. Hmm! The man with the Greek mustache was correct about his olive pairing then! Trust the man behind the counter with a mustache.
I’m not sure I’m going to be curious about Retsina again, but I am curious about the Greek reds. Are they as unique as their whites?
















